6-01-2023 1:30am

Hooks & Chops in Commack is being replaced by Il Toscano Seafood & Steak.

Samantha Hespos Editor

Upon entering Il Toscano Seafood & Steak, which is only a month old, one may not notice many changes from its previous tenant, Hooks & Chops, which abruptly closed in October. While there are new owners, Kiku Mena and Ahmet Hoti, along with a new chef, most of the former staff remain and the rustic-modern décor has remained mostly the same. The menu has shifted towards Italian cuisine rather than New American, though it's possible that if the owners thought differently, they may have simply translated the old name into Italian.

According to Erin Walsh, the general manager, the partners are already in possession of an Italian restaurant, Via Garibaldi, located in White Plains. When they learned that Hooks & Chops was available for purchase, they were impressed with its decoration and were inclined to maintain the seafood-and-steak concept, but with an Italian touch.

Brian McMenamin, a chef from Westchester who is experienced in both Italian cuisine and butchery, was recruited to lead the kitchen. He has brought the authentic taste of Tuscany to the table with his version of ribollita di trippa - a classic Tuscan soup consisting of bread and tripe that has been well-braised to enhance its peasant-y flavor. The menu also includes Sicilian caponata, a sweet and sour relish made with eggplant and burrata, as well as a Californ-Italian seafood stew called cioppino. From Emilia-Romagna, McMenamin offers butternut squash ravioli in browned sage butter that has been complemented with roasted sea scallops and lobster. Additionally, dry-aged prime steaks and Kurobuta pork chops are available. These are known for their intramuscular fat and rich flavor similar to that of Wagyu beef. Prices for starters range between $15 and $17, while pastas are priced from $26 to $36 and mains from $26 to $49. For lunch, there is a $26 prix fixe option for an appetizer and entree.

There are two dining rooms and a bar-lounge within the expansive space of Il Toscano. In addition, they offer an outdoor patio that features live music on Friday evenings.

Il Toscano Seafood & Steak is at 6330 Jericho Tpke., Commack, 631-486-2808, iltoscanoseafoodandsteak.com